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The Essential Guide to Brighton
16 March 2010
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Fat Leo

Venue Image
Venue Image
16-17 Market Street,
Brighton,
BN1 1HH

0872 148 5824 Calls to 0871 numbers will be charged at a fixed rate of 10p per minute (from a landline or a mobile) no matter where you are within the UK. This number is unique to viewlondon.co.uk.

The ViewBrighton Review

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Review bySimon Lazarus15/10/2007
A typical Italian eaterie, Fat Leo dishes up authentic Italian fare and prides itself on paying care and attention to its diners.

The Venue
Fat Leo makes the most of its setting, a pretty little cul de sac with some outdoor seating to laze in whilst soaking up the afternoon sun during the summer. Inside, it's a clean looking outfit with neutral walls and a spiral staircase running through the centre of the restaurant leading to more seating on the upper level. Impressive even at a quick glance, the aqua blue glass tiled counter is enough to pique your curiosity and draw you into the restaurant if you've nver visited before.

The Atmosphere
Couples and grandparents taking little kids out for a bite to eat, this is very much a family based trattoria with an authentic, homely Italian feel that's just like being at home with Mamma.

The Food
Fat Leo is the sister restaurant to nearby Donatellos and although it's certainly a worthy contender for an Italian to shout about there doesn't seem to be any sibling rivalry in evidence. For starters, it's well worth sampling the bruschetta alla funghi e gorgonzola, toasted crostini bread topped off with well cooked mushrooms, garlic and gorgonzola. The melted cheese meshes the ingredients and provides a rich sumptuous taste. Also recommended is the cocktail di gamberetti, a classic mixture of prawns served on a bed of lettuce with a fresh horseradish and marie rose sauce.

Mains feature your usual Italian suspects of pasta, pizza, meat and fish dishes. To pull some good dishes out of a familiar pack is tricky but go for the Fat Leo baked rigatoni of pasta tubes in a bechamel and cheese sauce or the Gnocchi Gorgonzola e Noci, small dumplings of potato in a blue cheese and walnut sauce. This Italian favourite is given a different twist with the walnut sauce which works well with the soft consistency and texture of the dumplings. Other mains worth a look are Pollo Parmigiano, a fried chicken breast coated in parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs served with spaghetti pomodoro; Pollo al Marsala, pan fried chicken breast in an olive oil and marsala sauce served with saute potatoes which are crispy and well seasoned. A fish dish which always proves popular is the Salmon alla Griglia con salsa, grilled salmon in a cream and dill sauce served with saute potatoes. The dill is the perfect accompaniment to any salmon dish and combines beautifully with the cream sauce without being too overpowering.

Desserts include an interesting signature Fat Leo rhubarb bread and butter pudding simply described as Torta di Mele (shortcrust pastry with cream, apple and fruit gelatine) and a Fat Leo gelato with vanilla ice cream, espresso coffee, whipped cream and topped off with crushed amaretti biscuit.

The Drink
A sound wine list offers up a medium, fruity and crisp Gavi, a dark fruity Australian Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz and a rich full bodied red Barolo. Try Messina, the Italian classic beer or for the more adventurous who fancy keeping in the Italian spirit, order the Testa Rossa, a cocktail of vodka, cranberry juice, cointreau and lime juice.

The Last Word
Fat Leo is a good alternative to its sister restaurant, Donatellos. In fact, it's edging ahead of its older sibling in terms of food and fine service.
Fat Leo has been reviewed by 3 users
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