2-3 Little East street,
Brighton,
BN1 1HT
0872 148 5827
The ViewBrighton Review
Charita, the lady responsible for the infamous 'soul in a bowl' concept delivers a slice of American pie in the heart of Brighton.The VenueBefore a visit from Gordon Ramsay on Kitchen Nightmares Momma Cherris was a rundown and uninspiring place to visit, a shame as when it had first opened it was a roaring success. Now the restaurant is even more successful than it ever was although it does help when you simultaneously gain major TV exposure and are given guidance by arguably the world’s most highly respected chef, a man with more stars to his name than the entire Chelsea team.
When business started taking off again, Charita relocated to an impressive three storey building a stone's throw away from the original restaurant. Inside, there's an eclectic mix of all things American in honour of the owner's native country - there are stars and stripes flags draped across the wall and even a nodding James Brown miniature doll. It’s certainly a homely feel and the interesting touches include press cuttings of Momma Cherris media appearances (this Momma's a star!) and a folder about the history of soul food to peruse at your own leisure. The menus even feature personal family photos of her nearest and dearest. All in all it's a really homely feel.
The AtmosphereAll the media attention has worked in Momma Cherris favour. Ramsay's show may have been called Kitchen Nightmares but the old adage holds true - all publicity is good publicity. It's not even worth trying to turn up on the off-chance of a table - advance bookings here are now a must. The atmosphere is lively with diners of all ages and cultures devouring their way through vast piles of food.
The FoodThe American theme is in keeping with the jumbo sized portions that arrive at the table. Opt for what Momma does best, the soul in a bowl platter for two which is a selection of five mind boggling starters and six mains. Otherwise, for starters choose from goujons of catfish served with a tangy pineapple salsa, hot buffalo wings served unusually with celery sticks and blue cheese dressing, and homemade onion rings which are crispy and generous in size.
Mains include Momma's famous macaroni and cheese which melts in the mouth and of course, American jerk chicken. The use of flavours to season the chicken is sublime and is definitely the restaurant's signature dish. Accompanied by a sweet potato mash, spring greens, griddled plantain and zucchini, at £14 it's good value for money too. However, the okra gumbo also comes recommended. A mixture of okra, broad and kidney beans, zucchini, bell peppers, sweetcorn and tomato it's served alongside a pile of rice and peas. Aunt Mae's Meatloaf is just spicy enough and Momma Cherri's meat jambalaya is also extremely popular - a hearty mixture of Cajun rice, chicken breast, chorizo, king prawns and plenty of veg finished off with griddled plantain, crunchy tiger prawns and whole chillies (only for the brave). In fact you could dine out every day of the week at Momma Cherris and still never be bored.
If you've any room for dessert the must-tries are the signature key lime or pecan pie and the peach or blueberry cobbler which is crumbly and cooked to perfection.
The DrinkThere is a good choice of more unusual American beers from deep in the south here. The Texas Lone Star is light and tasty while the classic Missouri based Michelob is full of body. There is also a guest beer and ale of the week which is reason enough to return every week as if the food wasn't enough to convince you. However, if cocktails are your thing, it can only be the Momma's special of Archers, vodka, orange, pineapple, cranberry juice, and lemonade. Incredibly sweet but delicious nevertheless.
The Last WordThanks to a huge renaissance, Charita Harris aka the queen of soul has once again injected Brighton with her soulful American style cooking and this time it seems Momma isn't going anywhere need over-processed, over fried food. Long may Momma Cherris continue to reign.
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