Nothing shows confidence in your local restaurant as much as investing in it which is exactly what Norman Cook aka Fatboy Slim did when he heard that Mike Dodd, owner of his favourite Japanese restaurant in Hove planned to open a new restaurant in Central Brighton.

The Venue
Located on New Road, the listed building offers Regency grandeur across two levels and inside contemporary style contrasts with the period features. The bright white walls and simple styling ensure that the restaurant seems as spacious as possible. On the ground floor a long bar stretches half the length of the room whilst an original stained glass panel in the ceiling spatters petals of colour onto the restaurant below. Diners sit shoulder to shoulder at small tables opposite the bar (where Japanese paper lanterns etched with calligraphy hang overhead) or in the airy conservatory area at the back of the restaurant which is perfectly sized for private parties if the occasion arises.

At the front of Oki-Nami, a spiral staircase leads to the first floor and more dining space with a small bar tucked away at the back. Brightly coloured origami butterflies soaring across grass and trees in prints hanging on the walls create welcome splashes of colour as does the turquoise glazed pottery the food arrives on. In summer, the doors to the balcony on the first floor are thrown open whilst tables and chairs are arranged on the pavement outside for laid back alfresco dining too.

The Atmosphere
Locals have tried to keep Oki-Nami a secret but have failed miserably simply because the Japanese food is so good and the restaurant so stylish that you can’t help but brag about it. As a result, local actors, comedians, writers and DJs sit at tables alongside tourists and even the occasional flush foreign student. Service is speedy which makes ordering more plates of food easy, children are kept smiling with origami and everyone from staff to diners are upbeat and as slick looking as the surroundings.

The Food
Oki-Nami proves that there’s more to Japanese cuisine than sushi but having said that the sushi at the restaurant is very good. Maki rolls start at £3 (cucumber) and peak at £5.95 for a beautifully seasoned soft shelled crab tempura. The Nigiri rice balls are served in pairs and the fish is delightfully fresh including salmon (£3.30), squid (£3.50) and teriyaki eel (£4.30). The sushi platters are excellent value (from £5.95 for the vegetarian sushi and from £6.95 for the seafood option) and are ideal for sharing at the beginning of a meal as is the sashimi (raw salmon, tuna, squid, tuna and seasonal fish) at £7.95 for a small and £13.95 for a large platter.

For main courses, the Japanese version of tapas, Otsumame, offer a sociable alternative and are a good choice if you’re in a group and fancy trying lots of new dishes. Particularly recommended are Hotate Yaki (£7.95), the scallops beautifully tender and browned in garlic butter but it’s the large dollop of wasabi mayonnaise and its inevitable kick that really sets them apart. The Namagaki (£5.95) are the standout however. The four oysters couldn't taste more of fresh, salty sea air if you'd waded out from the beach and filled your boots yourself and they're lent extra depth with the addition of spring onions and ponzu. If you’re of the more is more food philosophy and not happy unless you have a large plate of food in front of you however, then opt for the chargrilled seabass (£14.95) a plump slab of fish that’s served with a pile of braised vegetables and drizzled with a Japanese citrus and saffron sauce that adds tanginess and depth.

Refreshingly for a Japanese restaurant, the desserts at Oki-Nami are just as interesting as the main courses although the selection is more limited as you’d expect with just a choice of three. The Matcha green tea ice cream (£4.95) is served simply with a chocolate wafer and is a cooling way to clean your palate at the end of the meal. If you’ve slightly more room however, then the only option has to be the Okumanchyojya cake (£5.25), a rich combination of thick dark chocolate, Japanese millionaires shortbread and tangy crystallised ginger.

The Drink
For a traditional end to a Japanese meal, take tea. Caffeine free options include Mugicha (a barley tea) and Kukicha (which is macrobiotic as well as naturally free of caffeine). The most unusual choice however, is the Genmaicha which is a roasted brown rice tea. On the other hand, if your digestion is better aided by alcohol there’s plenty of choice from plum wine to sake to Kirin Ichiban on draught. The cocktail list is impressive too with separate lists for Eastern (Oki-Nami originals) and Western classics if you’re feeling less adventurous. The Eastern alternatives are arranged opposite their Western counterparts so that it’s easy to find an Oki-Nami alternative to try. If you’re a fan of Bloody Marys for example, then try the Bloody Nami (both at £5.25), a spicy combination of shochu, sake, wasabi, lime and tomato juice. If Mojito’s are more your thing on the other hand then chances are you’ll enjoy the Shojiso (£5.95) combining shochu, sugar, lime and shiso too.

The Last Word
Oki-Nami has managed to exceed expectation in its latest guise in Central Brighton. Whether you fancy a couple of cocktails and a platter of sushi, a romantic meal or a family friendly full blown feast, Oki-Nami is one Brighton restaurant that can be relied upon to serve up food that's even better looking than the majority of its celebrity fans and as spectacular as its surroundings. Or to put it another way - oki, oki, oki...oi, oi, oi!