1 Buckingham Place,
Brighton,
BN1 3TD
0872 148 6530
The ViewBrighton Review
Owner chef Sam Metcalfe produces a truly mesmerising dining experience using the freshest quality produce with a combination of tasty flavours to produce a winning formula of Modern European cuisine.The VenueOn the site of a former Lloyds Bank, Sevendials location on Buckingham Place is just a short distance away from the main train station and seafront. It’s certainly a striking building with touches of the Georgian period about it. For al fresco dining, there is a south facing summer terrace decked out in hard wood and with additional heaters plus a quaint little garden to the side full of lavender and other foliage.
Inside the restaurant blends contemporary furniture and lighting with some personal touches including fresh flowers, changing artwork and some interesting personal Metcalfe family pictures. There’s also a tasteful private room which is a perfect setting for an intimate gathering.
The AtmosphereThere’s always a real buzz and sense of anticipation about this restaurant and its cooking. Sit down outside and soak up the ambiance or book a table inside amongst other Seven Dials locals, especially young couples and people who can sniff out a good restaurant quicker than it takes to make a beurre blanc.
The FoodWith two AA Rosettes to his name at Sevendials, Sam Metcalfe brought his ever burgeoning reputation to the south coast and Brighton years ago having previously worked at amongst others The Groucho Club and L’Escargot in London. In fact at just 21 years old he was made Head Chef at The Belvedere in London's Holland Park.
At Sevendials, the set menus are a good choice with two courses weighing in at less than £13 and featuring dishes such as Golden Cross goats cheese salad with grilled pepper and finished with an orange and hazelnut dressing and a beautifully spiced rump steak and beansprout salad.
Mains feature a deliciously tender chargrilled Sussex loin lamb chop with potato gratin which is crisp and creamy, grilled homegrown tomatoes, lashings of bearnaise sauce and finished with a sublime rosemary jus. The home smoked mackerel fillet fishcake on sauteed baby spinach with a Sussex free range poached egg and a fresh hollandaise sauce is also highly recommended. Metcalfe’s knowledge of flavours and combinations is superb. The mackerel is deliciously fresh with the poached egg perched proudly on the top. Cut into the runny yolk through the perfectly cooked white and let the yolk run down and mix with the hollandaise. Other dishes of note at Sevendials (and there are so many) are the excellent lentil and sorrel soup, steamed sea bass fillet with black beans, rice and sauteed Chinese greens and a cepe mushroom and parmesan risotto with a powerful white truffle oil which adds extra depth.
The desserts feature an incredible chocolate trifle. Beautifully presented there’s a layer of kirsch cherries with hints of kirsch liqueur running through all the layers, with a glossy white and chocolate mousse which is simply finished off with chocolate shavings. Other recommended desserts are the Valhrona hot chocolate fondant with coconut ice cream which is creamy and indulgent and the hot plum and almond tart with a light creme Anglaise.
The DrinkWith wine to suit every dish and occasion the wine list is as solid as the food and includes a clean, light French Muscadet De Sevre et Maine Domaine du Verget 2005 with hints of citrus and thyme and the South African Oracle Pinotage, 2005 with delicate plum, vanilla, wood spice and berry aromas. If you prefer a sweet wine opt for the Argentinean Torrontes Tardio Familia Zuccardi, 2004 with pear, apricot and citrus flavours.
The Last WordSevendials has long been a Brighton foodie's secret weapon when it comes to impressing visitors and it's not showing any signs of losing its crown any time soon. Highly recommended.